Nossa Senhora do Rosario church in Cidade Velha

This austere, simple building marks the beginnings of the dominance of Western civilization in the late 15th century.

The oldest town in Cabo Verde

Santiago island was discovered by the Portuguese in 1460 and soon after – in 1466 – there was established the first town, which was then named – Ribeira Grande (now – Cidade Velha). There were no native people in Cabo Verde.

Ribeira Grande was the first European outpost in the tropics, a vague beginning of the dominance of Western civilization.

In a short time this picturesque town at the mouth of 100 m deep canyon turned into a hub of Portuguese colonial business. Ribeira Grande was the main stopover site for the Portuguese in their way to their African, South American, and Asian colonies. This town served as a transfer point for slaves, nearby were cultivated new (for Europeans) plants from the other colonies.

Town became very rich and from time to time was attacked by pirates, e.g. in 1585.

First colonial church

In 1493 here was built the first Christian chapel in sub-Saharan Africa, in 1495 it was extended to its current size. This building was built in Manueline Gothic style, it was austere and simple, both outside and inside.

Church was used also for the burial of local nobleman.

It is interesting to note that many Africans became influential and revered people in this town. For Europeans of those times it was unusual to see that pastors in Nossa Senhora do Rosario church were pitch black… and, well, they were learned, devoted, optimistic, and musically endowed people, much better pastors than most of their European colleagues.

Decline of the town

Due to geopolitical changes the importance of Cabo Verde decreased in the 18th century. Ribeira Grande turned into a sleepy outpost in faraway islands. By the late 18th century capital of the islands was transferred to nearby Praia, and many buildings in the old town (Cidade Velha – hence its current name) were destroyed.

Part of its values though was well preserved – original street network, impressive fortress, central square – Pillory Square, and two churches, including the old Nossa Senhora do Rosario church.

Only by the end of the 20th century did the town (now – rather a village) gradually revive. Step by step its most valuable buildings have been renovated and now this is a pleasant, charming colonial town in a spectacular natural setting.

The original architecture and details of Nossa Senhora do Rosario church have been exceptionally well preserved. The church is active up to this day, with a mass held every Sunday.